by Ray
(Auckland New Zealand)

A labour of love

A labour of love

A labour of love

I purchased this launch from Tauranga N.Z. for NZ $4,000 and trucked it to Auckland where it is at present "on the hard" getting a restoration.

It is an ex NZ navy 32ft--(9.8m) cutter which was built at Devonport naval base circa 1952.

The cabin was built on her sometime in the 60's and it's fitted with a SD 23 Nissan diesel.

Too many zinc anodes?

What would be the effect of placing too many zinc anodes on this vessel?

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Wooden Boat Anodes?
by: Mike

Hi Ray,

She is a fine looking boat.
'Being an ex-naval craft I would imagine that she was built like the proverbial 'outside toilet’.

Have you had to do much work on her?

In the question of anodes, my advice, for what it's worth, is to keep them to a minimum.

It all depends on what metals have been used below the waterline.

I would imagine that the originals were all copper and bronze.

But had anything else, such as stainless steel been added since, such as the prop shaft and/or stern tube?

The trouble is that while the anode is protecting the metal it can also cause strong alkaline chemicals to form on the surface, which can then soften the timber surrounding the fastening or fitting.

If she has had any problems from this it will show as white furry stuff around the inside of the fittings and fastenings.

The furring is alkali so it can be washed off and neutralised with an acid such as vinegar but that won’t repair any damage done to the wood.

There are plenty of wooden boat owners who prefer not to have any anodes, who prefer to just keep electrics to a bare minimum and make sure that the electrics are properly isolated and any shore power disconnected when not in use.

Personally I feel happier having at least one main one located on hull just below the turn of the bilge, bonded to the engine.

Especially if you are going to keep her in a marina where there could be stray voltage (electrical) leaking from other boats and/or faults in the shore power.

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