Jewel a 16' Crescent Sail-boat

by Mike Allen
(Longview, TX)

pm 38

Step by step instructions for building Crescent using modern plywood building techniques and materials.


Well over the weekend I got "Jewel" taped and papered and did my finish sanding.

Vacuumed the hull of all dust then blew everything off and vacuumed again.

Using gray primer and got the edges done and started the rest of the hull.

Oh my it looks terrible !!

Not the primer the hull!

Now back to rough sanding the imperfections, out with the filler and we will see how it looks at the end of the week, and then the second coat of primer will be done and hopefully very fine sanding to be ready for the first of the finish coat.

Wish me luck and patience.



Comments for Jewel a 16' Crescent Sail-boat

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Dec 01, 2017
 Poorly designed rig.
by: Anonymous

I had this boat back in the 80's, and I loved it save for one thing.

The rig.

The lower shrouds should be attached at the mast at the same point as the head stay.

As drawn, when you tighten the head stay, the mast bends forward above where the lower shrouds attach to the mast.

Other than that I had a lot of fun on that boat.
Jun 29, 2015
 Butt Joints
by: Michael

I think that even back then 16' sheets had to be ordered especially.

Scarfing ⅜" ply is possible if you are prepared to go to all the trouble of setting up a jig or the expense of buying a scarfing attachment for a saw.

Epoxied butt joints will be quite satisfactory and a lot easier to do.

You just have to take care that any backing plates don’t coincide with a frame member.
Jun 29, 2015
 Plywood
by: Tim

Michael,

My apologies. I thought you were Mike.

I wholeheartedly agree with building according to the design and using plywood.

The plans call for 16' sheets of 3/8" which may have been more readily available back in the day the plan was published.

Is 8' plywood sheets scarphed together the only alternative for that?

Thanks.

Tim
Jun 29, 2015
 Plywood
by: Michael

I don’t know the dimensions of the strips Mike used.

But I would suggest that you use plywood that is what the boat was designed to be built in.

Using plywood will make planking much simpler, cheaper and keep the weight correct for the design.
Jun 28, 2015
 Decking and Sides
by: Tim

Thanks, Mike.

What dimensions are the planking you used for the decking, sides, transom, and hull?

Tim
Jun 27, 2015
 Transom
by: Michael

That's a side view of the transom.

All the other frames are vertical, the transom is set at an angle.
Jun 27, 2015
 Transom Diagram
by: Tim McCoy

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your follow-up.

In the transom and frame diagram (#7 of Figure 4 on page 87), what is the left-most illustration explaining with two 3/4" thicknesses angled 30 degrees at the top and 37 degrees at the bottom, 18" long overall?

Thanks.

Tim
Jun 25, 2015
 Yea, it is rather confusing.
by: Michael

The curves on the back are purely for appearances, it's just a case of drawing a pleasing curve, not that they are often going to be seen up under the bows.

The 1¼" is the width of the front after bevelling.

As I said, it is probably best to leave the top proud and trim it at the same time as you trim the 'aux. stem' after planking.
Jun 25, 2015
 Stem Q2
by: Tim McCoy

Thanks for your reply, Mike.

Does the 4" horizontal measurement curve the full length of the stem upward through the "elbow" and include the thickness of the aux. stem?

What is the 1 and 1/4" measurement measuring exactly?

The left-most arrow seems to miss the left edge of the stem.

With the finished 1 and 1/16" of finished stem in yellow showing above the aux. stem is there still 11/16" of stem between the bottom of the yellow surface and the top of the aux. stem?

The diagram of the beveled face of the stem seems to show the top beveled portion of the stem extending down 1 and 3/4".

Thanks!
Jun 25, 2015
 Cresent Stem
by: Michael

The "centreline" is the extent of the bevel.

The "measurements of 4" horizontally, 1 and 1/16" down and 1 and 1/4" refer to the horizontal and vertical measurements of the finished stem.

However, it is probably best to leave the top proud and trim these at the same time as you trim the 'aux. stem' after planking.
cresent-stem

Hope this helps.
Jun 24, 2015
 Crescent Stem Diagram Interpretation
by: Tim McCoy

Hello Mike,

Your boat looks great.

I am pouring over the plans in the Boat Builder's Handbook but am stumped by the dimensions of the stem in figure 4A on page 87.

The foot of the stem is clearly marked as 4" deep at the end of the 7" notch but how thick is the rest of the stem upward beyond the "elbow"?

And is the line that runs the length of the upper portion of the stem supposed to be a centerline? It does not look centered.

Finally, also near the top of the stem are measurements of 4" horizontally, 1 and 1/16" down and 1 and 1/4" to what I referred to as the centerline.

What are those measurements trying to tell me?

My eyes hurt looking for their meaning.

Thanks, Mike!!

Tim McCoy
Franklin, TN
Apr 09, 2015
 Weight
by: Anonymous

How much does this boat weigh?

If I put an outboard on it (should I ever need it) what size engine would be best?
Jan 14, 2015
 Jewel Crescent Sailboat
by: Jim Speakman

I was thinking of building the crescent sailboat but I'm not sure if I can do it or not.

I watched the way you built yours I was very impressed and inspired that I might just give it a try.

I don't no if I have the skill to build but I am willing to give it a try.

I never built a boat and I am not a carpenter and I've never even been on a sailboat so wish me luck and if it comes out half as nice yours I be proud.

Thank you for showing your us your us your step by step pictures
Apr 24, 2014
 Hull Paint
by: Mike

Well it is going on now. Two coats so far, doing a light sanding between coats. More to go on this evening.

------
HULL PAINT FINISHED

Hull paint finished and gunnel stained and a couple of coats of clear on.

Turned back over and onto trailer to finish the top deck. Photos to follow.

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