Malahini, a Plywood Boat
Assembling the frame
Beginning to attach the planking.
Things I will do differently next time.
Begining to fiberglass.
Painting her Bottom.
decision to build Malahini
was inspired by those highly lacquered Italian speed boats, the sports
of the sea, such as the classic wooden, exemplary finished, works of
designed and built by Carlo Riva.
chose the Malahini
design for its classic looks and because it was a manageable size for
first boat building project.
decided to power her
with an outboard engine as I figured that it would be easier to install
an inboard for this my first attempt.
will have a hard
chine Vee bottom hull and will be powered by outboard motors.
will be 15.5 feet
long with a beam of 6.5foot,
Malahini design was developed for sheet plywood
cut out and assembled the frames they were attached to the
batons were then attached to the frames.
The sheer and chine are
attached to the breasthook which was glued and fastened tothe stem.
The sheer and chine
were attached at bow having been angled to butt properly to the stem
sheer and chine
attached, these were fastened and glued in position after being sprung
first of that beautiful fiddleback myrtle goes on as the transom is
to my plywood boat.
to Top of
starting to attach the underside having faired the various
important to keep these lines fair for aesthetic as well as performance
planks attached at
bow and along the centreline of the keel.
to Top of
side planking for my plywood boat being
I'm at the stage
where I can start to finish off the hull sides with decorative veneer.
live in Tasmania where we
have some of the most beautiful timber, I
am using Tasmanian Myrtle veneer.
photo shows a
compass rose that have inserted into the sides.
reason for this was
to 'hide' the join between two sheets of ply.
hull side is approx
5.2 meters long, unfortunately the myrtle veneer which I had laid up on
marine ply was a special order and the sheets only came in
instead of just joining two sheets plus a bit extra I thought I would
some detail work and hide the join.
bow of my plywood boat is now attached.
to Top of
a long delay due
to the weather being too cold to do any work on my plywood boat,
have had some decent weather.
have now glued the
second layer onto the rear of the hull on both sides.
it has dried
(overnight) I can start to Fair (plane smooth) the joins and bog
term) up the screw holes ready for finishing.
this is all done
she can be painted, turned over and fitted out.
there is still
a fair bit to do to my plywood boat.
this project about 12 months ago (hard to believe where the time has
I will do differently next time
Read the bill of
materials properly so that instead of laying up 2 x 3mm marine ply on
sides I would have ordered the correct 6mm ply with the myrtle on it
Built a steamer so
that I could steam the ply to make it more pliable when fitting
the stern curvy bits.
Sand and epoxy the
myrtle as soon as i put it on to protect it. We had such a wet winter
the myrtle got and remained a bit damp. When this happens with myrtle
black and I had to sand out some of this blackness. This I achieved but
tricky as it's easy to sand through the veneer.
from that it has
been really enjoyable.
is still lots to
do on my plywood boat but looking forward to it.
after 110 hours of
working on her I have sanded the hull and given it a coat of epoxy.
just look how it
has brought out the colour of that beautiful myrtle.
have now fitted the
splash rail and fibreglassed the joints.
haven't done any fiberglassing before but had some good advice from
wouldn't try to
build a fiberglass boat though.
to help me do some sanding on my plywood boat, (and yes he was wearing
a breathing mask
took it off for the photo).
have now primed and
applied the top coat of paint to the bottom of the hull.
primer I used is ALTEX brand No3 Epoxy primer undercoat. It’s a two
high build primer and Pete sprayed on about 8 coats one after the
which filled any small imperfections etc in my plywood boat.
sanded it back with 240 then 320 grit.
sands really well and gives a very smooth finish.
imperfections after the sanding I filled and re-sanded.
coat is also ALTEX brand Acryl Recoatable Polyurethane with a part A -
and part B - Hardener.
sprayed about 6 - 8 coats gradually thinning the mixture withU20
finish with a high gloss.
I will sand
this after about
a week with 1000grit
wet and dry and then cut and polish.
now her bottom has
now been finished it is time to turn my plywood boat over.
I worried, no not
me, didn't sleep for a week and then it was surprisingly easy.
I did have help from seven of my mates.
will do for free beer.
Andrew’s Malahini Part 2.
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