In theory, order to obtain proper sail balance while sailing, the center of effort, should be in line vertically with the center of lateral resistance.
But a boat should always carry some weather helm.
There should be just enough to allow her to luff easily, especially in heavy wind but not so much as to require a lot of pressure in the tiller, about 3° is quite sufficient, any more will slow the boat.
Having to put just a little pressure on the tiller to the weather side can help give a good feeling of being in decent control of your boat, without that pressure there would be no 'feel' to the steering wheel or tiller.
To do this requires in theory that the center of effort should be aft of the center of lateral resistance.
The digam shows the center of effort for the jib and the main and the combined total CE for the sail plan.
On the keel is labeled the CLR or center of lateral resistance which is the turning axis for the boat.
Any rig her owner likes to work is the best rig. John G Hanna
No boom should be twice the beam to avoid tripping the boat up. Philip Bolger
Boomless sails need at least 10 degrees of beam to work, preferably 12. Philip Bolger
The effective centre of effort of boomless sails is somewhat aft of where an equivalent boomed sail’s would be. Philip Bolger
Don’t make the narrow angle at the top of a triangular sail too narrow. If it’s less than 27 degrees, the sail maker will not be able to get any shape into it. Philip Bolger
Cutting a small convex curve shape into the luff of a square-shaped sail is a quick and cheap way of getting a good shape. Jim Michalak
Sail area can be estimated using the following formula: (Ballast in tons x distance in feet from the centre of gravity to the metacentre)/(Sail area in sq ft x height of centre of effort in feet above the metacentre) = R where R is some value in the range 16/10,000 to 24/10,000. T Harrison Butler, attributed to Admiral Alfred Turner
The sail area of a 14 foot cruiser should be 150sq ft; for a 16-footer 325sq ft; and for a 20 footer, 525 sq ft. From a graph published in Elements of Yacht Design by Norman L Skene
Stability is the engine of the sailing vessel. Des Sleightholme
The appropriate sail area of a vessel varies with its displacement in tons squared and then cube-rooted times a fudge factor constant. A vessel with 0.25 tons displacement will have a sail area of 100sq ft, one of 0.5 tons 150 sq ft, 0.75 tons 190sq ft, 1 ton 270sq ft. John Teale
On a sloop the headsail should have about 50 per cent of the area of the main, and on a cutter the headsails should have about 70 per cent of the area of the main. John Teale
Good Sail Balance can be achieved by placing the centre of gravity of the sail plan directly over the centre of lateral resistance, or perhaps an inch or two ahead of it. John F Sutton
For Sail Balance, The lead of the centre of effort over the centre of lateral resistance should be 12-14 per cent of the waterline length in the case of a shallow hull, fin keel or centreboard craft; about 10 per cent for deeper, more traditional yachts; and about 8 per cent for cruising yachts of classic form. John Teale
Balance: for racing machines of the scow type the lead of CE over CLR should be 5 to 15 per cent of the waterline length; for shoal, full-ended centreboarders, the lead lies between 7 and 11 per cent. For full-ended keel boats the lead is generally a little less; for cruising boats of normal form it is about 6 per cent. Norman L Skene
To achieve balance, the correct lead of CE over CLP (=CLR?) as a percentage of LWL is 7-12 per cent for a schooner; 11-14 per cent for a ketch; 12-15 per cent for a yawl; and 13-17 per cent for a sloop or cutter. Dave Gerr (The Nature of Boats)
In flat-bottomed boats, putting the CE directly over the CLR seems to achieve good balance just about every time; however it is different in boats with a deep vee-section near the bows. Jim Michalak.
Sail Balance, again. The shape of the leading edge of the keel is one of the chief factors in determining the balance of a boat. If the edge is sharp the forward part of the boat tends to bite into the water and hold its position, whereas a a rounded or blunt leading edge will tend to slide off sideways when a boat is sailing to windward - so what we might call the true centre of resistance is further forward inn a boat with a sharp leading edge than it would be in the case of one with a blunt leading edge. In other words, we can't really know where the centre of balance is likely to be without doing tank tests. F S Kinney .
The diameter of a traditional solid wood round boom should be 0.02 of the boom length. For a loose footed sail, it should be 0.022 maximum, tapering to 0.02 at the ends. The diameter of a solid wood gaff should be 0.017-0.019 of gaff length. John Leather.
The best proportions for a gaff mainsail are luff 1.0, head 0.833, leech 1.73, foot, 1.02. The angle of the gaff to the centerline of the mast should be 30 degrees. The rake upward of the boom should be 6 degrees. If a topsail is to be carried, then the angle of the gaff should be eased to about 42 degrees. John Leather.
The simplicity of the cat rig is a recommendation in itself. William and John Atkin.
For singlehanding a large boat and therefore obliged to split up the rig, I would have a ketch with the area of the mizzen about two thirds of the mainsail, and the mizzen mast stepped about as far forrard as practicable. There would then be some chance of the vessel working to windward under mizzen and headsails in heavy weather. F B Cooke.
The permanent backstay should be designed to clear the end of the boom regardless of how high the latter may rise in jibing. William and John Atkin.
I believe only a solid stick (mast) has any place on a gaff-rigged boat. Oliver Tantanen.
A good figure to aim at for important shrouds is to have the cap or upper shrouds make an angle of 14 to 15 degress with the centre-line of the mast. John Illingworth.
Sail area is modest in the small cruiser simply because the buyer cannot be trusted to reduce sail to a safe area when it begins to blow. Des Sleightholme.
I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. And while I take every care to ensure that the information in DIY Wood Boat.com is correct, anyone acting on the information on this website does so at their own risk.