Partially detached under water plank

My 21'converted double ended Maltese fishing luzzu has a carvel built hull.

For'd of the aft bulkhead a plank just below the waterline has partially detached from some of the side frames.

The wood is red deal 1/2" x 6" and copper nails are used for fixings.
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I had a problem with a water leak earlier this year.

Even copious quantities of grease did not stop it.

I did recaulk the whole hull in 2011 with " Black Pudding " and soft cotton.

She is now on her trailer very near my house pending some action.

Last winter I removed all the paint from the inner hull.

The hull was incredibly dry having been exposed to warm dry 30c + wind and sunshine.

It is possible that some of the old congealed paint scrapings got behind the side frames and may have caused this problem when she started to take up.

1)Do I try a re-fix the plank using ss screws then remove and seal the ' old ' nail holes ?

2)Is there a proven method of pressing the plank nearer to the side frame prior to fitting the screws.

Any ideas ?






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Comments for Partially detached under water plank

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Jan 14, 2013
detached plank
by: Keith

You should definitely avoid stainless steel fasteners in this situation.

Stainless steel only works when exposed to oxygen.

When you counter sink it and then plug over them they will breakdown and start to deteriorate.

Stay with silicone bronze below the waterline and anytime you are going to counter sink and plug a screw or fastener.

This will increase the longevity of the repair.




Nov 30, 2012
Sprung Plank
by: Mike

Hi Peter,

As long as there are no cracks in the frame and the wood is sound in both the frame and the plank, then it is probably just the nail that has slackened.

The only way to draw the plank and frame together is by using through bolts.

These can be inserted through the existing nail holes, providing the surrounding wood is sound.

Personally I prefer to use silicon bronze below the waterline but 'marine grade' stainless should be fine as long as it is properly plugged.

Best to use a bolt with a countersunk head rather than a flat head.

And be gentle when tightening, it’s surprising how much pressure a bolt can exert, you don’t want to crush the wood.

As it is only partially sprung you might not need to clean out the caulking.

On the other hand removing the caulking and making sure there is no debris behind the frame would be best.

To get the nails out, remove the bungs, mark the centre of the nail head with a centre punch and then use a drill bit slightly larger than the nail gauge to drill until the head comes off, then knock the nail through.






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