The covering also needs to be watertight to prevent rain water seepage
which cold cause underlying structures to rot.
Minor leaks in the hull providing they are kept under control are not a
However, a leak overhead can become extremely frustrating.
law says that any deck leak will appear above the head of your bunk and
will start to drip in the early hours of the morning.
Unfortunately, building this surface is not the simplest of
Not only is the surface made up of compound curves due to the
sheer and camber but it will have numerous openings and have to cope
with a considerable amount of wear and tear.
For the majority of amateur boat builders, plywood
is the obvious
choice as a deck covering because of its;
Large sheets cover large areas quickly
Less cutting and trimming than with traditional methods
It can be cut from a pattern
No seam caulking
Strength to weight ratio.
out at this stage that
when it goes wrong can be quite disastrous.
Which, is all the more reason to only use
marine grade ply
and make sure the surface and edges are well sealed.
While I am wary of using epoxy on a traditionally built
boat and it is
becoming increasingly expensive.
I would certainly advocate using epoxy to seal the edges
of the plywood
Because of the compound curvature of most decks, laying
plywood in one
thick panel can be a problem.
It will be much better to make up the required thickness
Sheets of thin ply will have enough flex to comply to
Laminating the covering in this way also allows for
staggering of the joints and thus minimising the risk of leaks.
When it comes to making patterns, try not to have any
align with stress points such as the corner of an opening.
And try to position joints where they can be hidden
under a covering
board or a king plank.
easiest way, that I have found to make the patterns for deck
panels, is with clear plastic sheet.
It wants to be reasonably stiff thick polythene sheet.
Not only can you see through it when positioning but you
can easily cut
it and mark out the pattern with a marker pen.
Having transferred the outline of the pattern to the
panel, I like to
cut it slightly over size.
Then, having tried it for fit it can be trimmed with a sharp block
plane, preferably one with a low angle blade, the concave edges can be
trimmed with a spokeshave.
If you don't have a chisel-plane, inside corners can be trimmed with
sharp bevel-edged chisel.
a good idea to start with the larger panels covering the ends of the
deck, leaving final fitting adjustments to be made on the smaller
panels such as side decks.
Fasten the panels directly on to the sheer strake/clamp and to beams
you plan to nail the panels, I would recommend silicon bronze gripfast
nails rather than galvanized as the galvanizing can so easily be
damaged when hammering and will eventually cause rust stains to show
My own preference for gluing layers would be a resorcinol
glue, this will need plenty of weights such as sand bags to hold the
top layer down during curing.
Another good alternative would be Aerolite as it does have some gap
The glue needs to be evenly spread by squeegee or roller.
I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. And while I take every care to ensure that the information in DIY Wood Boat.com is correct, anyone acting on the information on this website does so at their own risk.