Comments for 1974 Sea Raider hardtop express with twin inboards .

Comments for
1974 Sea Raider hardtop express with twin inboards .

Trojan teak deck repair
by: Rogers, Green Marine

Remove deck panels , and make templates.

Cut the bad plywood off with a sharp chisle then grind off remainder of area with 36 grit grinder, and sand the back off the teak planking with 100 grit until flat.

Then with your template using 1/4 in marine ply cut a new section of ply and epoxy it under the teak and install 3 in 1/4 stripe under the seam and epoxy>

When curing is done use a saw and cut out where the deck framing goes and chisle that area off and install deck panel.

This way you save your teak and only replace your rotted marine ply.

Trojan Sea Raider Decks.
by: Mike

Hi Rob,
First let me say that I don?t blame you for using plywood, I recon that if they had marine grade plywood in the days of old no one would have thought of using planks for a deck.

Second I must admit that I'm not familiar with the building method of the Trojan.

However, it would be extremely unusual if her decks were not laid on top of deck beams and carlings.

The beams and carlings are the main structural elements, not the deck.

The teak planks will have added longitudinal stiffness to the deck however, the plywood when fastened down will give multidirectional stiffness.

So you will, by replacing the teak stiffen and strengthen her.

If you have a look at the underside of those side decks you should be able to see the beams and callings.

Mike.

replacing decking on 74 trojan searaider
by: Rob Sheppard

It`s nice to see that my Trojan isn`t the only one with deck problems.

I have a question though, is the decking along the sides of the boat where the windows are, structural?

I have to replace all my decks and am using 1/2 inch ply because I am not re-laying teak.

I am using a flexible laminate and require the extra strength but I don`t want to start pulling it up without knowing if that cabin is going to stay intact.

Rob

1974 Trojan Sea Raider
by: Mike

Hi Robert,

First I must point out that without seeing your boat I can only give you generalized advice.

Second I?m glad to hear that you do intend to restore her. It will take a lot of work but be assured it will be worth the effort. Despite the economic situation there is still a market for well restored boat such as yours and when things improve, which they will, you will be the proud owner of a valuable craft.

As our boat was built in 1974 I?m assuming that she had a fiberglass hull with a teak laid deck.

It?s an unfortunate fact that Trojans of this era have a reputation for deck problems and it sounds as though someone has made a quick, cheap repair job. That doesn?t pay in the long term as you are finding out.

It sounds from your message that you are already aware that you are going to have to get it all off, it?s the only way to do a proper job.

But before you start, make sure she is securely and squarely supported. The deck is a big part of her structural integrity, once that lid is off there is a danger of the hull flexing out of alignment if she is not propped evenly.

And as the deck is in such bad condition, be prepared to find that the rot has penetrated the stringers and any wood underneath.

To do this job right, you will need to get rid of all wet or soft wood.

Don?t be tempted to take shortcuts they will only create more headache in the long run,

Trojans in the early 1970s were, I believe still experimenting with fiberglass so you may find that the stringers are foam filled fiberglass.
If so it?s quite possible that the foam is wet, while the foam is only there for shape and not strength it will still need digging out and replacing.

As for the deck substrate I would suggest ¼ inch marine plywood. And I stress that it should be marine grade, I know it?s expensive but if you intend to do the job properly you want it to last.

And even though it is marine grade I would suggest giving it a good coating of epoxy resin on both sides, and edges before installation.

This can be fastened it to the stringers with thickened epoxy and stainless steel screws.

Seal all the joints between the plywood panels with glass tape and epoxy.

Templates for the plywood panels can be taken directly off the boat using stiff cardboard.
Or you can use thick clear polythene, that way you can draw on top with a marker and see what you are tracing. Just make sure that it is held taught over the deck.

If you intend restoring her to he former glory then I guess you are going to have to use teak for the planking and covering boards. But it isn?t cheap. I wouldn?t recommend using any of the imitation teak deck products, some of them might be quite good but I have yet to see one that really does look like the real stuff and they won?t add anything to her value.

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