1940 Rhodes 27 Project...

I want to change a few mahogany planks on my 1940 Rhodes 27 project...

Can I use cedar?

Comments for 1940 Rhodes 27 Project...

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Apr 26, 2015
good rot resistance, but very soft
by: Anonymous

I wouldn't recommend cedar for decking.

It's soft, and would not wear well. Pretty though.

From the wood database: http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/

Mar 22, 2015
um...actually this boat.
by: Tony

I owned this boat from 1968 until 1981.

I know her pretty intimatly.

Jan 27, 2012
by: jobi

Tony have you worked on this boat or do you mean a similar boat?

Jan 04, 2012
I know something about this boat
by: Tony

I think the boat is universally fastened with Bronze Everdure Screws and Bolts.

I know why, because in 1980-1981 I replaced many of them.


Dec 12, 2011
Plank Fasteners
by: Mike

Assuming that she Is fastened with copper rivets and roves you can use the same again so long as the planks are still tight to the frames.

Where there is a gap between the plank and frame you could use silicon bronze through bolts (machine screws) to draw them together.

Where the garboards are fastened to the keel you can use silicon bronze grip-fast nails or silicon bronze woos screws, the same wood screws for the hood ends.

If the holes in the stem or keel rebates are damaged or widened you can glue in wood plugs and re-drill them.

To remove old rivets I just ground off enough of the hammered over tip to allow the old rove to come off and then gently tapped the nail through enough (without bending) for me to grip the head from outside and then pull it through.

Dec 11, 2011
will check out iroko
by: Anonymous

Thanks for the tips!!

I will use cedar if iroko is not available.

Also many hull fastners need replacement...any tips on how to and what to use?

Dec 11, 2011
Plank Replacement
by: Mike

Now that is a beautiful boat, Philip Rhodes certainly knew how to design.

If you are replacing the full length plank (from stem to stern) then using a different wood (different water absorption, swell rate) should not be a problem.

Some workboats have traditionally been built with one type of timber below the waterline and another above.

I had to replace several mahogany planks on my boat, I chose to use Iroko, mainly because at the time it was the easiest for me to source (and so much cheaper than mahogany).

There are several varieties of cedar.

Port Orford (Lawson Cypress) and Yellow (Alaskan) would probably be the better varieties for your project.

They have excellent rot resistance so should be ideal for garboards, nice straight grain and bend well.

Western Red and White might be cheaper but tend to absorb water and swell too readily.

I would suggest that you make a template of the planks before you try to remove them.

If you get a long strip of clear polythene (I used a roll of poly bags) tack it to the hull then you can see the seams and use a felt tip to draw around them.

When I removed the first of the planks I replaced, I had intended using the old plank as a template.

I used a small bore hole saw to cut around the fastening (careful not to cut into the frames), in theory that should have allowed the plank to drop out.

However there must have been a build-up of old paint etc between the plank and frames, so I still had to hammer on the inside of the plank to get it free and when it did fall out the rotten parts broke.

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